Sandakan: 2D1N Kinabatangan Wild Forest Lodge – Far from Crowds

Before I share my gushing review I wanted to say this as we had such a phenomenal experience here; There are a few completely incorrect and frankly stupid reviews on here which I read before coming that make false claims about this incredible co-operatively run conservation charity. It's hard to believe that anyone of that mindset would come to such a remote location and have their eyes shut to what was around them. I'm pleased to say that all of the guests on the site when we were staying were deeply respectful and appreciated this incredible place for what it is. I'm pleased I ignored the irrelevant reviews on here , and I would urge you to as well. Here's our experience.

We found the whole experience from the arrival very relaxing and dreamy; being introduced and welcomed by our guide immediately and going into the office to organise details of our stay, and having a delicious lunch at the basecamp. We were then taken by boat to the Tungog camp which was far better than anything we could have conceived of.

The camp is incredibly well designed and a beautiful place to stay. It was also incredibly clean, and felt very rooted and in keeping with the natural environment around it. The large eating facility is really pleasant and it was a really nice way of bringing everyone staying on the camp together as we all shared our meals together.

We found the individual cabins incredibly comfortable. They’re really well spaced out and designed in a traditional Malay structure. The noise of the rainforest is mind blowing all day, but particularly when you're lying in bed at night! You do have a real sense of being completely immersed in the rainforest.

We found the staff onsite absolutely brilliant. They were incredibly knowledgeable, kind, deeply respectful and connected to their local landscape. We really liked how calm and measured the staff were about dangers and creatures, such as leeches. You were made to feel assured and safe, aware of the dangers, but not panicked.

There was also a great degree of flexibility in the programme of the day. We never felt rushed, but equally there was always so much we could do.

We specifically chose this organisation as it is a co-operative structure, and because they are almost exclusively run by local people. This really is unusual, and we felt utterly honoured to be shown around by people who have grown up in the area. So many of the touring operators are run by white westerners, and the locals are not involved and don't benefit. It's a very smart, wise, and sustainable model that is far reaching in the number of locals they involve. By involving local communities, they're creating an alternative income stream for them which doesn't rely on the palm oil industry.

We were completely amazed at the quality, freshness, and amount of food that we were provided with. It was absolutely delicious, nutritious, and provided us with another way to connect to the local culture. You will not go hungry here!

The range of activities available to you is really incredible. It was brilliant to be able to just walk from the camp around the site and see so much wildlife without going far at all. We also did night walks which are otherworldly, and a way of seeing wildlife you wouldn't necessarily see during the day, so we'd really recommend it. The boat trips were another way to see different wildlife and experience the landscape in a different way, such as crocodiles, kingfishers, and..orangutans! We were astounded at the amount of wildlife we saw in the days that we were there.

We also really enjoyed tree planting. We felt like this was a really excellent way to make guests feel connected to the land, to feel like they had a stake in its future, and to be directly seeing and participating in your important tree planting work. They have a member of the team who plants trees full time along the river to provide a critical green belt for wildlife alongside the palm oil plantations. He collects seeds from the trees in the rainforest, and grows the seedlings in a nursery in the village which we visited.

We found the way in which the organisation engages the whole villages surrounding the camp incredibly impressive. It made us feel very connected to the village and their lives, rather than just a passing tourist. We absolutely loved seeing traditional forms of dance and martial arts by local village folk, and visiting ancient burial sites.

Useful information we weren't given before arriving but would have loved to know
- Fresh drinking water is available at the camp at all times
- You have wellies and walking boots available for hire as soon as you arrive
- Mosquito nets are available in all lodges
- There is soap available in your washing facility that contains limonella, a natural mosquito deterrent
- Tea and coffee is available at the camp at all times

I have sent all of this information over to Mescot, so they may subsequently include it in information they give to prospective guests.

Final bit of advice, do NOT book through Sticky Rice Travel! We were quoted a price that was 10x more expensive than going directly through Mescot ourselves. We arranged our whole trip via email with them and it was really straightforward. By going through them as well, all of the funds are going directly to them and local people rather than a third party which isn't run by locals.

A very well-run jungle camp which provides visitors the opportunity to experience the Kinabatangan forest while contributing to community conservation projects.

From the platform outside each elevated cabin, you can spot many birds and animals as they go about their daily lives. I stayed in the last cabin, next to which the jungle trails start, and there were orangutan nests within a stone's throw of it. The orangutans move through the area from time to time, but I was lucky enough to spot a couple of them on my last day. The cabins have insect mesh which stop the mosquitoes coming in, but are open to the many wonderful sounds of the jungle around you. You'll wake up to the melodious song of the sharma and calls of hornbills.

It seems much easier to spot small animals and birds than at Danum Valley, probably due to the open nature of the forest - I saw a moon rat walking back to camp from the jetty one evening and pittas are also very common around the walkways. I also loved the little shrews that seem to be everywhere.

My guide AJ was very professional and knowledgeable about the jungle and was happy to accomodate changes to the itinerary which suit my interests.

Bring a bright torch and insect repellent!

This place is a MUST if you travel to Borneo and interested in nature. I don't have words to descibe the incredible experience that we had here. Elephants, wild Orangutans, scenic wonderful forests, the guides, especially for Azman are extraordinary people and they knowledge and kindness is extreme. The ecocamp itself is a fantastic place in the nature, you really feel that you r a part of it. 100000% recommend! Just go!

This was a wonderful trip in a beautiful forest accommodation. River cruises were spectacular and you are in a part of the river that no other company goes, so it feels extra special. The guides are all very knowledgeable and friendly. It’s what I’d call “glamping” - nicer accommodation than a tent, but you are still in the wild. Cold Showers pouring water over your head with a bucket and no electricity. But quite surprisingly they have very modern sit toilets, better than what you’d find in many hotels in the city. Food was pretty good considering you’re in a forest. The local river fish and jungle fern are especially good. I stayed 4 nights but think 2 nights is optimal. Definitely do the night walk. Rent the gum boots. Bring a head torch.

For those up for more adventurous hiking up steep hills ask about adding an extra day at Supu reserve where there is a spectacular cave and mini mountain summit. Skip the gomantong caves and go here instead. You’ll see lots of bats and swiftlets.

Species I saw on the trip include

BIRDS:
Rail-babbler
White crowned shama
Wallace eagle
Gray headed fish eagle
Brahaminy eagle
Pied hornbill
Black hornbill
Bushy crested hornbill
Hill Mina
Ruddy kingfisher
Rufous-collared kingfisher
Maroon woodpecker
Blue throated bee eater
Dollar bird
Stork billed kingfisher
Lesser fish eagle
Blue eared kingfisher
Buffy fish owl
Greater racket-tailed drongo
Crested serpent eagle (catching snake!)
White bellies sea eagle
Black and red broadbill
Purple heron
Barn Swallow
House swallow
Great Egret
Intermediate egret
Cattle egret
Little egret
Chinese egret
Olive backed sunbird
Storm stork (7 circling above water)
Moustache babbler
Black and crimson pitta

MAMMALS:
Black squirrel
Proboscis monkey
Silver leaf monkey
Long tail macacque
Mouse deer
Malay civet
Palm fruit civet
Common porcupine
Big macaque
Orangutan

Have a wonderful time immersed in the forest, great food, good guides and support conservation and restoration in an area almost covered in oil palm. This is not a luxury trip, no power (although solar is coming soon), lots of leeches (but leech socks or tightly woven long socks keep the at bay) and basic but clean facilities. Food is great. After the pandemic places like this need our support.